Wing Point Superintendent Update: March 2010

Welcome Wing Point Members

This blog is intended to keep the members at Wing Point up to date on the course conditions, the challenges we face with weather, the day to day update on projects, and hopefully add some insight to your overall golf experience. The blog will be updated as much as possible. Information on things that may impact your golf experience such as sanding or aeration will be posted as well. Take time to read one of the polls on the side of the page. The results will help us make decisions on course maintenance practices and give us feedback on what you, the members are thinking.

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Winter is back...and aeration is postponed

What a change! We had 1.75" of rain over a 24 hour period Sunday/Monday. The course was pretty dry until that. The forecast ahead looks pretty wet, which means we will be postponing the greens aeration until the weather turns around. We were scheduled for Monday, but it may be the following week from what we are looking at. In circumstances like these, we sit back and wait for a 2 day stretch of dry weather to go ahead and aerate. It's crucial that the sand remains dry so it can drag into the holes easily. Wet sand causes bridging in the channels that the aerator produces. This reduces the efficacy of the process which is trying to fully replace the thatch that is removed with the sand applied afterward.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Front 9 irrigation is done!

We are fully operational on the front 9, putting green, cayman range and short game area. We should be finishing the back nine in about 3 weeks. This is well ahead of schedule! We will be seeding #9, #1, and #2 next week. We hope to aerate those holes as well, but the weather looks really wet, so we may postpone that.

The #5 tee complex is complete and it turned out really well. The mens tees which had very little tee space has been increased from about 800 square feet to about 3,500 square feet. The hole can now vary in length of up to 25 yards and is about 35 feet wide. This should make divots a far less problem as well as making the hole more interesting from day to day. The ladies tees have been moved very close to the cart path with steps to be added very soon. The drainage around the tees was a big improvement as well.

The #10 green is still making great improvement, but has a couple more weeks to go before we can open it. A reminder, we will be aerating the greens as usual on Monday, April 5th. The course is closed that day. Thank you for the cooperation.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Course Update 3/20

Sprinklers are installed on all of the front nine except hole #2 and the green on #1. We anticipate getting #1, 2 and 10 finished next week.

We are fully seeded and cleaned up on holes 3 thru 8. All fairways, tees, collars and aprons are aerated and sanded. The #5 tee renovation should be sodded by the end of the week. We will be sodding the tee tops with sod from the 5th fairway. The surrounds will be seeded. This approach allows us to use our own Poa Annua grass on the tee tops for a quick and inexpensive turnaround. The tees should be playable around April 21st when the sod has fully rooted and can handle the daily play.

Next on the side projects is the new fairway bunker on the right side of #10. This bunker will likely only affect the long hitters, but should be visually impressive for all players from the tee and clubhouse. The bunker is already rough shaped and should only take 1 day of solid handwork to get it ready for seeding. The subgrade is pure gray clay with hardly a rock in site, so we will be adding sand sooner than we normally do since there isn't a need for sodding the bottom. A sod layer is usually used, then butched down after 3 weeks and sand added. This creates a barrier so that native soil and rocks don't migrate to the surface.

In about 2 weeks we will start the work on the ladies 13th tee and the entire 14th tee. Both will be fairly easy and quick to construct since there is very little dirt to move and most of it will be cut from existing soil. #5 took so long because much of it was built from spoils left over during the irrigation and drainage work. Also, we dealt with periodic heavy rainfall which set us back, making the spoils turn to mud.

#10 green looks like it will make a full recovery! We now have about 60-70% turf. we aearted it with 3/8" solid tines again this week. That was the 5th time we aerated #10 green since January 1st!!!! That is the biggest reason for it's turnaround. I think it will be ready for play in mid to late April without needing any significant sod work.

We are going crazy with the wildflowers this year. We had such great success with them 2 years ago in front of #13 green, we decided to see how they will do in these other natural areas...

front of #13 green
front of #11 mens tee
all around the pond between #10 and 18
all around the 18th tee area where the wood chips are
the water hazard between #12 and 13
the water hazard across #14 fairway
in front of the #16 tees
around a few stumps on #12 near the green, #13 near the tees, and to the right of #15 along the cart path
to the right of #6 ladies tees
behind the 8th green along the cart path and around the 4th tee area

All of these areas are either out of play, or in a water hazard. They will be left natural all summer as long as the flowers maintain their color.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

230 sprinklers installed

That's right, we have 230 sprinklers in the ground! Milroy moves pretty fast. Holes 3 - 8 are completed. We will be coming in behind him over the next 3 - 4 days for cleanup, seeding, aerating and sanding. We have already aerated the 4th and 8th fairways. We sanded nearly all of the rough on those holes to go along with a good heavy application on the fairways. They really needed the extra sand since we had to skip sanding in fall due to financial constraints. We will stick to the plan of sanding only on sunny to partly sunny days so that the sand can be worked in effectively when it's dry. Once again, thanks for all your patience. It will be well worth it for decades to come when our golf course remains in beautiful condition throughout the summer months.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Start of aeration

We will begin aerating tees, fairways and aprons today. As Milroy finishes a hole, we will aerate that hole about 1 day later and then topdress as well. We will only be doing 1 hole per day. This allows us to start aerating sooner than we planned, as well as creating a mess just as the contractor is done doing the same. We will also seed any bare ground the day we aerate. Once we are done, then we are done for the season. The greens will still be aerated in early April as planned. This process means that by mid April both Milroy and aerating are done at the same time, allowing for a quicker overall recovery.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Aerating FYI

We are aerating the greens that were affected by the winter blues again this week. They include the putting green, #1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17. They will be rolled out the same day.

Milroy Golf Systems...start to finish

Step 1: Vibratory plow pipe and wire leaving a thin raised slit in the turf

Step 2: Cut pipe, glue on fittings, splice wire connections, install sprinkler

Step 3: Backfill around sprinkler, securing wires and setting sprinkler to grade

Step 4: Lay sod around sprinkler and vibratory roll the plowed ditch line back to grade leaving just a 2" slit in the turf to throw seed over. Recovery time for the slit is about 21 days, just like a divot.

#10 Green slowly coming around

January 8th...Ouch!

Today...better, but far from OK!

A must read article!

TREES - THE BIGGEST PROBLEM OF GOLF COURSE TURF

James T. Snow

USGA Green Section

Far Hills, NJ

Trees clearly are important assets on most golf courses in the northern sections of the United States,

providing a great deal of beauty and strategic interest and serving a variety of other important functions.

On the other hand, the effects of trees are a major cause of poor quality turf on parts of many courses.

In some cases, trees have come to overwhelm the courses from both an agronomic and playability

standpoint, causing widespread turf problems and imposing restrictions on the strategic intent of the

original golf course architect.

While it could easily be argued that trees are not the biggest (most important) turf problem on many

courses, there can be no denying that they are the biggest (size) problem on most courses. On a few

courses they are both. In essence, the negative impact of trees on turf quality can be summarized as

follows (play considerations aside):

- Shade

- Poor air circulation

- Tree root competition

- Interfering limbs and branches

SHADE

The effect of shade is an important cause of turf weakness or failure on many types of areas. The

combination of shade and traffic, though, can be deadly. Turfgrass plants need light to photosynthesize

and produce food for growth and regeneration. When light levels are inadequate for too long a period,

carbohydrate reserves are depleted and the turf becomes too weak to quickly recover from traffic injury.

There also is good evidence that shade predisposes the turf to ceratin diseases that would not be a problem

were the turf located in full sun. The effects of shade are especially noticeable on greens and tees, where

foot and mower traffic is concentrated on relatively small areas, and in roughs where cart traffic is quite

heavy.

The lack of direct sunlight on a turf area also prolongs the drying out period after rainfall or

irrigation, leading to greater disease activity and greater soil compaction. Not surprisingly, Pna annua

follows closely on the heels of these problems, bringing with it another set of difficulties.

86 GOLF TURF MANAGEMENT I

The wholesale clear-cutting of trees from around a green or tee is usually not necessary to overcome

a shade problem. Instead, begin by removing selected canopy and understory trees to increase sunlight

intensity. Trees on the southeast, south and southwest sides of the turf area should be the first to be

removed. If this work does not resolve the problem to your satisfaction, then try thinning the canopy in

some of the remaining trees to further increase light intensity. The removal of more trees may be required

in some instances. Continue this removal and thinning process until healthy, wear resistant turf is restored.

POOR AIR CIRCULATION

Another of the consequences of too many trees in close proximity to important play areas on a golf

course is poor air circulation. It usually is quite easy to determine which greens or tees are suffering from

this problem; just tour the course on a hot, muggy day and note the areas where you feel the most

uncomfortable. The temperature of the air is often significantly higher in these areas, and a breeze to

relieve high humidity symptoms is usually lacking as well. Also, soil temperature and moisture levels

tend to remain higher for a longer period of time relative to other areas, due to the lack of good conditions

for drying.

As a result of these factors, disease activity, heat stress and soil compaction effects are common on

turf growing in such an environment. Again, £illl annua often takes over in these areas, performing poorly

during periods of stress.

A key to resolving air circulation problems is to open passageways for air to move through the area.

Oftentimes, the removal of shrubs and understory trees is enough to significantly improve the situation.

A general thinning of the canopies of some of the remaining trees also can be of great benefit. The

removal of some of the larger trees, especially those that block prevailing winds, can prove helpful if

previous effects fail.

Though shade and air circulation problems tend to go hand-in-hand, this is not always the case.

Some greens, for example, receive full sunlight throughout the day, yet suffer greatly from poor air

movement. This is particularly true on poorly drained soils. The message, then, is not to rely on shade

as a symptom of poor air circulation, but to look for the problem based on its own merit.

TREE ROOT COMPETITION

One of the great hidden dangers of trees on golf courses concerns the effects of their roots on nearby

turf. Like turf, trees absorb water and nutrients through their roots to sustain life and promote growth.

And like turf, the tree roots that are active and functional are those located in the well aerified soils in the

upper few inches of the profile. Thus, turfgrass roots and tree roots are very often in direct competition

for available water and nutrients, and usually the turf areas suffer greatly during periods of stressful

weather.

A good method of reducing or eliminating tree root competition is to mechanically prune the tree

roots so they no longer compete with turf roots in the area where problems are being encountered. Greens

and tees are the important play areas where root pruning is most often done, but pruning along the edges

of fairways and near the tree lines in the roughs is becoming much more common as golf cart use

increases. As suggested earlier, the combination of tree effects and heavy traffic can be deadly; thus the

need to root prune in the roughs.

Mechanical tree root pruning can be accomplished by several means. The most common method is

to cut a 2-foot deep trench at a convenient site between the trees and the turf area of concern. For best

effect, several layers of tar paper, sheet metal or some other barrier should be place vertically along the

wall of the trench prior to backfilling to discourage new tree roots from encroaching too quickly.

Nevertheless, root pruning usually must be repeated every few years, as the tree roots eventually manage

to find their way through or under the barrier.

Other methods involve the use of vibratory plows, stump grinders, or blade attachments to backhoes

to cut a narrow slice in the soil that severs tree roots and temporarily benefits the turf. However, this

practice must be done every year or two because a physical barrier cannot be installed.

SNOW 87

Unfortunately, many turf managers are not fully aware of the extent to which tree roots can affect

the turf, often blaming disease, insects, traffic or some other common problem for what is largely tree root

competition. A common response to a recommendation to root prune trees is a blank stare and a few

non-committal mumbles about how they might give it a try if they have a chance. However, the word

about the successes of those who have tried it is getting around, and more and more golf courses are

adopting root pruning as an important annual practice in needed areas.

TREEI~MBINTERFERENCE

It might at first seem hard to imagine how tree limbs that interfere with a golf shot would cause

agronomic problems for the grounds crew, but that is exactly what happens on golf tees. Trees planted

years ago off the right front side of a tee, for example, eventually grow to the extent that their limbs

interfere with a tee shot from the right side. Golfers will instinctively compensate for this interference

by hitting most of their tee shots from the left side of the tee. As a result, the right side receives less and

less play, while the left side is eventually subjected to most of the traffic. It is not uncommon in these

instances to see the right side develop thatch problems and the left side become consistently thin, weak,

and dominated by Pna annua or crabgrass.

There is a simple solution to this problem, involving the pruning back of interfering tree limbs or the

removal of trees that are hopelessly in the way. However, because trees grow slowly, most golfers don't

realize what is happening to their teeing area until interference becomes extreme. Even then, they are

often reluctant to spend the money to prune or remove trees unless the situation becomes desperate.

Instead, they usually ask the golf course superintendent to put forth a bit more effort to keep the tee in

better condition. Obviously, tree work is the best solution.

SUMMARY

Trees can greatly affect the quality of turf on a golf course by the shade they cast, the air circulation

they block, and the roots they produce. In addition, they can reduce the useable area on a tee by 30% -

50% or more by producing limbs that interfere with playoff one or both sides of the tee. The best

means of preventing these problems is to use care when planting trees on a course. For established trees,

a good program of tree removal or branch thinning can increase sunlight penetration and air circulation

to a great degree, and interfering limbs can be removed as needed to allow full use of tees. Finally,

careful attention should be paid to root pruning around greens, tees, and other important turf areas where

tree roots obviously are having a negative impact.

The effects of trees can be a significant extra stress at a time when the turf is already under great

stress due to heavy traffic, difficult weather conditions, and many other factors. By giving careful

consideration to the concerns noted above, it should be possible to improve the health and playability of

the turf on any course where trees are an integral part of the scene.

Wing Point Superintendent Update